PlumberHandyman.com
FREEPlumb.com
PlumbCheaper.com
PLUMBING
FAQs
www.PlumbingForDummies.org
This Page Is Always Improving! Free
For Cheaper!
All Home Improvement & Remodeling Licensed General Contractor Plumbing@HandyGC.com
Questions/Comments/Help? CALL ME! Chris 714-858-5555 Frequently Asked Plumbing Questions
* Common Plumbing Abbreviations
* Water Heaters
* Toilets
* Drains
* Faucets
* Construction Tips (Plumbing) and Code
* Gas
* Garbage Disposals
* Dishwashers
* Water Distribution
* Water Quality
* Noises
* Smells
W/C = Toilet
CWM = Clothes Washing Machine
DWM = Dish washing Machine
LAV = Bathroom Sink
HWT = Water Heater
LT = Laundry Tray
CFT = Claw Foot Tub
FD = Floor Drain
Electric
Hot Water Tank Inspection
Once a year:
1.) Turn off electric power before
doing anything. Damage will result if electric element comes on when tank is dry. Turn off water supplying HWT.
2.) Drain the water heater (HWT). After
HWT is drained with hose still attached, open and close the inlet valve a few times to help flush the sediment out. Do this
until the water comes out clear. You may have to dismantle the valve if there are large chunks of scale coming loose.
3.) Remove
the sacrificial anode, which looks like a plug in the top of the HWT. Inspect; it should be almost as long as the water heater.
Replace if any portion of it is thinner than about 1/4".
4.) With anode out, shine flashlight inside of tank to inspect
for rust. If you see a lot of rust, it's probably time to replace it before it fails. Water heaters are normally
glass or ceramic-lined
to prevent corrosion; this is also what the anode's for. The heat of the water hastens corrosion, once it starts.
5.) Open up the
element access panels. Disconnect one wire from each of the elements. With a volt-ohm-meter, check to see that both elements are still
functional, if your meter peaks out with exceptionally high ohms,
it's time to replace the element.
Gas
Hot Water Tank Inspection
1) Check the outside
of the tank for rust and water leakage, look at the warranty life expectation
written on the tank. If the life is expiring and/or you are finding rust marks
on the outside of the tank, it is suggested time for replacement.
2) Drain the tank follow the above 2.) instructions using a garden hose.
Replacing a water heater:
a) Check for and/or install a special
pan underneath designed to catch water should the HWT develop a leak (or pop off the
pressure relief
valve). Have it drain to a safe
place (outside house or floor drain).
b) Gas HWT have to be at least 18" off the floor because combustible fumes *sink* and for air intake.
c) Check for earthquake strapping, call your local
city/county building inspector for the code requirement in your area.
d) Reinstall all piping connections, replace any worn parts
connecting your tank to water, and if gas.
e) Wrap everything up. Turn on the water. Open a hot water faucet to let the air out. When
HWT is full, turn on electricity, or light gas pilot per instruction located on
HWT. Wait for the water to heat up, gas heats faster, Electric
HWT takes longer heating time.
f)
Check for water leaks.
g) If gas water heater, always check for gas leaks! (Get
a spray bottle, fill 1/4 with kitchen dish soap, fill rest with water, then spray
every/all gas connections, if it leaks the leaking gas will blow a bubble from where the
leak is.) Correct immediately and test again.
Tankless Water Heater Are better energy efficient, have always been used in Europe. They're better than a hot water tank being you only heat the water you use, and they take a lot less storage space. Installing one requires a one inch gas line from your gas meter, and gas piping should only be installed by a licensed plumber. (normally your existing gas line is 3/4 inch supplying your present furnace, water tank, stove, etc fixtures). Tankless is virtually maintenance free once installed correctly, they're great work horses providing endless hot water supply 24/7, you'll simply never run out of hot water.
Flushing Problems
Toilets on the end of long
pipe runs to the building sewer drain are most likely to plug up.
It's important to keep a CONSTANT 1/4"; per foot grade. With plastic drain pipes they must be
hung/strapped every 4 feet and it wouldn't hurt to actually look at them
any time you're under the house to see that they have not begun to sag. Guest
half bath toilets tend to plug up more often than master bath toilets because there is no shower washing the drain down.
There is a lot of consumer dissatisfaction with 1.6 GAL
water saving toilets.
The manufactures had to design and build them to meet a government water conservation deadline
which simply
didn't produce a good flushing 1.6 gpf toilet initially. Manufactures blamed
Congress, the consumer blamed the manufacturer or plumber, now we're all "stuck" (no pun intended) with 'em.
Can you fix the toilet to use more water? The answer is likely your toilet may have a small round Styrofoam piece on the flapper chain, move the piece along the chain until the flapper closes more slowly.
a) If you have a floating like ball (ballcock) on a rod (float arm) in your toilet tank, simply bend the float arm upward so the ballcock valve allows more water into the tank. There may also be an adjustment screw on the ballcock valve to keep it open a bit longer.
b) If no floating ballcock, then you have a flush valve (most popular today), adjust the flush valve higher in your tank, the adjustment is a ring jut below the head on the thin neck portion of the flush valve.
The reason that you need to make
either of these adjustments is that the major manufacturers were forced to rush to market using existing molds and technology without time to develop other strategies that make using 1.6 gallons successful.
The entire toilet: flush valve, ballcock assembly, water tank and bowl are all designed to work together for maximum efficiency.
Comfortable Toilet try
the long gated "handicap
height" toilet, it really is comfortable to sit on when you get "old" like I am.
When shopping, keep in mind to get the (wide 4" neck) type, you will have
the most comfortable and certain good flushing toilet (water
closet)!
Toilet Leaks most common:
Wax Ring is common to leak from time to time, check to see water leaking under toilet, code requires caulking around the front portion of toilet and floor, if caulked you will need to pull the toilet to check for leakage, once pulled you then need to either replace or add a cheap thin wax ring to the top of the existing cone wax ring.
Replacing
all new wax ring use two wax rings, one regular (or more) wax ring
(cheapest) on the bottom and one with a second wax ring with the plastic horn insert,
place plastic horn ring on top of the cheapest ring with no plastic horn. Don't
be afraid to allow the wax to squish out as you seat bolt down the toilet, use a putty knife and cleaner to remove excess.
The bolts are called "closet bolts", replace the closet bolts too,
they easier to work with, you will need to cut them with a hack saw to install
the china caps.
Toilet
Flange
a) is the flange even with the finished floor? If it's to low - then use
additional wax rings. If the flange is higher than the finished floor or the
floor is not level you'll need to shim the toilet, whn shimming don't use wood
shims.
b) Take a look at the flange, is it secure to the 4" pipe? Today it
is code to secure (glue ABS pipe) the flange to the 4" plumbing sewer pipe.
c) What is the plumbing sewer pipe made of? If it's a soft greyish material, it is a
"led flange", this design required the toilet to be attached to the
sub floor using four (4) screws on older toilets, toilets back then had four bolts
instead of the two we use today. Your toilet probably has been replaced
with a two toilet bolt screw down system, so instead of having four bolts for
the led flange, you are cheating with only two, thus your toilet can never be
secure. If you have the older led flange, you
need to replace it if you now have leaking.
d) Inspect your flange, do the closet bolts
fit into the correct clots and hold correct? Many times a flange will rust or break as the toilet
was leaking for some time before being detected. If the flange cannot secure the
closet bolts holding the toilet, then that flange needs to be replaced.
Water
is leaking through the ceiling (below toilet).
It is easy for leaking water to escape from the toilet area through
the floor to the ceiling below, because there is a large gaping hole through
your sub floor allowing the 4" inch pipe. When you suspect your toilet
leaking check for all the following carefully with a strong flashlight on your
hands and knees:
1) Check the bolts hold the tank to the bowl, these can rust and fail.
2) Check the water level in your tank, is it to high allowed to spill out?
3) Check the supply tube coming from the wall connecting to the bottom of your
toilet tank.
4) Check the angle stop valve where you turn off your water supplying your
toilet.|
These are the most common sources for
toilet leakage.
Sealing the toilet tank to the Bowl.
Get the best results by using the
correct large donut gasket that is made for the
toilet.
Sealant will not help. Tighten the tank bolts down evenly to the point where the tank is snug on the
toilet bowl. Over tightening will break
the bowl and/or tank.
Your
downstairs Toilet and/or Shower Overflows when any other plumbing is used
upstairs.
When the lowest plumbing fixture in the house overflows
when another fixture is being used; this only means that the main sewer pipe is plugged somewhere.
Either there is a clog or there is a break in the sewer pipe outside
the house. Or if you're on a septic tank it may need to be pumped.
It is best to call me quick 27/7 when you have this problem. Chris 714-858-5555
if you forget this website google "Handyman King County", you will see
my cell in the title on google first page.
Slow
shower Drain
Chances are hairs balls clogging the P-trap. Remove the drain screen,
either screwed or clamped in, be gentle with it don't bend the screen. Take a
small snake, and wind into the drain slowly.
How Do I Get A Snake Down a
Bathtub Drain? Do not snake through the
bathtub drain, a snake will not go through the drain hole at the bottom of the tub.
To get a snake into the drain you take off the "overflow plate" on the
bathtub. That's the chrome
thing on the tub wall with two screws. If your bathtub drain has a lever to stop
the drain, pull it out - two sections of this stopper mechanism will come with
it, and chances are that hair caught will be caught on the end of this mechanism
and is what's clogging the drain- you
might not need to snake it. If a toe stop drain is installed at the bottom
drain location, the "chrome thing" will be all to remove for the
snaking process. In this case, you probably have hair balled in the P-Trap.
Do Unused Drains Dry Up and Get Rough Inside? Yes, drain pipes do dry
out. All drains have a P-Trap, when this trap drys out it allows "sewer
gas" to enter the room, sewer gas is the poop smlling odor inside sewer pipes. To
resolve simply poor water into the drain, if your drains do get dry you'll need to
repeat this process every six months or so.
Leaking Bathtub Drain Right at the Drain
Hole.
If the "drain flange" can be unscrewed, it can be replaced from the
top inside of the tub as you are sitting in the tub. Hopefully you have "crosshairs"
or a couple of little "nibs" inside the drain flange (the chrome part). That's the part that unscrews. The tool is called a
"pickle"
- it has a fork at one end and crossed slots at the other. Or a "dumbell" which is tapered and has crossed slots at both ends.
Or just use pliers and stick the handle end down into the drain, catch the cross hairs or nibs and
unscrew "lefty Lucy". Clean off the old plumbers
putty. Slide a new washer between the underside of the tub and the "shoe" (part with female threads) and put putty around the
chrome flange and screw it back in. If the pipe hairs are broken and missing, an
internal pipe wrench is the tool needed. If the drain flange is too old and corroded,
it will not unscrew, and the entire "waste and overflow" will need to
be replaced. Which requires two people, one person underneath the bathtub and the other
person sitting in the tub. At this point it is best to call me, Chris
714-858-5555
Can Clogged Vents Stop Up Drains? Yes and no. A toilet with no vent may not flush the contents
down the bowl, but any
other drain will work partially without a vent. (NOTE: building code requires all fixtures
vented), so you can rest assured you have proper venting if your plumbing was installed by a license plumber and/or
inspected by the building inspector. However, maybe an amateur added a toilet
and did not vent it, or a sink/shower etc, and that drain may be slow, or maybe roofers
dropped old roofing material down the vent and/or a stray piece of wood or
pinecone got into the roof vent stack making its way down into the drain pipe, this
would cause venting to fail, causing the drain to be slower. To resolve, run the
proper size snake from the roof stack vent. If an amateur plumbing, you can add
a "studevent" to the waste line, just note as general rule every
fixture should be vented within five feet.
Leak Somewhere in the Plumbing in my Shower/Bath?
Nine times out of ten it's the tile grout or a bad pan under the shower.
Before anything else determine if the leak is constant or if it is periodic. If it is constant there is a good chance the leak is in the
pressurized supply water lines. Usually the leak is periodic meaning somewhere
in the "waste" as water is draining away. Perform a series of tests to
pinpoint the cause of the leak. "You must make it leak before you can fix a
leak".
With a strong flashlight, make visual inspection
to see if the grout is cracked with little pin holes you can barely see.
This is the most likely cause of the leak but complete all the tests to be
certain, as it can be a combination of problems.
1) Remove the shower head and put a 1/2" cap on the shower arm and turn on
both the hot and cold pressure. Check where your water is leaking for new water
dripping, this will tell if there's a leak in the pipe between the shower valve and the shower arm.
If no leak has shown up here, then leak is waste water bleeding through the tile due to bad grouting or water is escaping the shower and going down through flaws in the
bathroom floor.
2) Fill the tub half way and drain it. This will tell if it's in the drain pipe. For a shower with a lead or vinyl pan, block the drain and fill the base with water. Go look check where your water is leaking for new fresh water dripping, this will tell if the pan or tub leaks.
3) Check the tile grout, turn the shower head pointing it to one tiled wall at a
time, let the water run at least five minutes on one wall, go check where your water has been leaking at for new water. Do this for each
shower wall, if you got more water dripping, you then know it's coming through the
tile grout of that wall, be certain to go slow checking each wall one at a time,
however it may be all walls. And if one wall it is best to fix all walls at the
same time.
If your tile grout is causing the leak,
it's best to call me, I can repair all tile to look like brand-new easily in one day
with no mess, I will also share/teach you how to prevent your grout from ever
failing again, I guarantee you will never have this leaking grout problem again!
Chris 714-858-5555
4)
If tile grout checks out OK, then pour a few cups of water on the floor, go
check where your water is leaking for new water dripping, this will
show a leak through bad tile or a cracked floor base.
5) If none of this works, it's time to open the walls, but
call me first! My guarantee is to always find the mystery leak, Chris 714-858-5555.
Problem:
The
Faucet Hot Water does not work
The Faucet
drips drips drips
If a sink faucet leaks or
fails in any way, just replace it, do not repair it. If it's a tub or shower
valve faucet, then it is best to repair as it can be expensive labor intensive
to replace,
First you need to turn off the water supply, bathtubs and showers are turned off at the house shutoff or street meter valve, all other fixtures have an angle stop valve under the sink.
All faucets have have either cartridges or stems that can be replaced.
If you have two or more handles on your faucet, these use stems, the stems unscrew out, take it to the hardware store to visually match, (NOTE: there is a hot side stem and a cold side stem) the new stem will come with a "seat", check your existing seat with a good flash light and replace if you see any grooves.
If
you have a single handle faucet, gently take the ID cap off then unscrew and
remove the handle, pull the cosmetic tube off exposing the cartridge, there is a
half round clip (on top) that has to be pulled up and out before the
cartridge can be pulled out. Often the cartridge seems stuck as if it will not come out. Some replacement cartridges provide
a plastic square to turn the cartridge in the valve body 1/4 turn. This breaks it free from the valve grease that it is stuck in.
Once you have the cartridge out take it to the hardware store for a visual
replacement. When purchasing your new cartridge, also buy plumbers grease as
your new cartridge requires this to turn easily. If after replacing the new
cartridge the hot and cold are reversed, re-install with the cartridge turned 180
degrees.
Claw Foot Tub Faucet Most older faucets are not code and
it is still easy to buy non-code faucets. The code is that the
faucet spout must have a gap of at least 1"; between
the top of the tub rim and the bottom of the spout - that's so
bath water in the tub cannot siphon back into the drinking water
supply.
Repairing (garden) hose bib,
it's recommended to only replace a hose bib if
whn leaking water, to replace
- if they come through the wall under the house then they
can be unscrewed or unsoldered from the crawl space. If it is
above the floor a "window" has to cut in the wall, try cutting on the
inside of the house drywall or sheetrock, it is easier to replace drywall, just unscrewing
the bib from outside will often result in a broken pipe inside the wall.
Sweating Bronze Valves and Sweating Copper in General.
Soldering
valves to copper pipe requires a little more heat to sweat because of the
thicker walls. But sweating copper is really all the same. Scour sand both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the
"cup"
of the fitting to be soldered. Flux them both and apply heat all
around the cup (make sure not to touch
the cleaned copper with your hands because the natural oils of your hands
can cause the soldered joints to not be "perfect"). Point your flame on one spot (usually the
bottom) and apply the solder to the opposite side until the solder
flows to the heat (make sure to not overheat).
The solder always runs to the heat. You can
over heat it - so once the solder flows around to the heat - stop
- and clean it up with a dry rag (a rag made from cotton).
If you use a wet rag it can make the job look rather sloppy but that will
also work.
Using Tubing Cutter Tips
Hold the cutters square to the
pipe and be sure the tubing is in ALL the rollers. Let the cutters
do the cutting, over tightening wears out the cutting wheel and
squishes the tubing out of round. For tight spots use "knuckle"
cutters.
Cutting Cast Iron and Plastic/Cast Connections
You cut cast iron pipe with a reciprocal saw like a cordless Sawzall.
Use the longest metal cutting blades. Once you have made a cut into the pipe - it will go
faster, at first-it
will seem like it will never cut, but it will. Use Mission or
Fernco couplings, one on each side-to connect the two pipes together plastic
and cast iron. Always measure outside pipe diameter before purchasing your Mission or
Fernco couplings, as pipe size varies.
It is a JOB. A couple of
suggestions... while you're at it replace the tub/shower valve faucet. It's best to replace the valve
when the wall is open, it's easiest to install new
preventing having to replace later when your shower enclosure is installed and
the wall is not open for easy access.
NOTE: if the tub/shower pan need to b new, then the valve should be new too.
You can break out
the old cast tub with a sledge hammer and/or cut up a metal tub with
a Sawzall.
Checking for Gas Leaks
If/when you smell gas, get
any empty
spray bottle, fill 1/4 with kitchen dish soap, fill remainder with
water, then spray every gas connection
in the area you are smelling gas odor,
(if
it leaks the gas will blow a bubble from where the leak is).
Will Natural Gas Corrode Galvanized Pipe?
In the old days, sometimes after a long time.
This was generally due to the poor quality of galvanizing flaking. Plumbers tend to use black pipe with gas for two main reasons. One is that it costs less than galvanized.
The other is that if galvanized pipes are used for water then using black for gas distinguishes the two uses. Imagine using galvanized for
both gas and water in the same house? That could present a problem in people
later distinguishing which pipes are carrying what.
Today there exists flexible stainless steel yellow gas pipe, so painting piping that is for gas yellow seems like a good idea.
If pipe is in the ground it will tend to corrode faster (depends on the soil conditions). Many areas do not allow galvanized pipe
underground for gas piping, factory coated steel pipe must be used.
Leaking Steel Union
Gas unions are not allowed
inside buildings. There are left and right hand couplings and
nipples that take the place of unions. No sealant is required
on unions faces - the seal is made by the beveled male/female
surfaces. When any union and/or fitting fails, simply replace it.
Garbage Disposal problems can
be plumbing, electrical or appliance. If the disposal doesn't
work at all - no "humming" or any sound, then push the red (reset)
button on the bottom of the disposal. If that doesn't work, check
the breaker in the electrical panel. If the unit "hums" but doesn't
turn then you can try unsticking it.. Some units come with a wrench
that you can use to turn the cutter flywheel from the bottom.
(An allen wrench will work). Or, use a "plumber's friend", broom
handle- something with a handle, and stick it in the disposal
and try to turn the cutting wheel around. In effect - unstick
it. If the unit doesn't respond to the above, it's time to replace.
The dishwasher does not completely drain itself.
The drain could be clogged or a partially clogged air gap will do the same thing. The air gap is
usually that little chrome dome on the kitchen counter.
If either air gap is clogged or drain pipe is clogged, follow the rubber tube
pipe connected to the pump under and inside the dishwasher, disconnect it (water
will drain out be prepared with pan and rags) blow your breath air into the rubber tube pipe, then reconnect and check for leaks.
If this fails, meaning water still does not drain from dishwasher, it is time
for a appliance repair person, your dishwasher pump is failing.
Copper Water Pipe Vs Plastic
Sizing Water Pipes
Copper is safest in most situations (unless you have low
pH or aggressive water). Over time, the plastic pipe can sometimes "sag" and possibly get brittle.
You solder copper, turn it on, test it and know that all is well. Any plastic to metal connection is weak, such as where the HWT connection
is made. Mice and rats love many plastics and rubber, they chew on it seeking a
water source.
If you lived alone, only using one plumbing fixture at a time - correct pipe size wouldn't be a big
issue. However when you are in the shower and someone flushes the toilet - it is a big deal.
(The basic rule is two fixtures
on a 1/2" pipe). You need min. 3/4" inch incoming cold pipe for a one bath house. Just running
3/4" to each fixture in
the house won't hurt, but there will be no real gain. To size a water distribution system, get a copy of your state code book.
It will spell it out in terms of beginning pressure, the furthest fixture from the meter and the number of fixtures in the house.
Each fixture is worth "so many units" and you are allowed "so many
units" for each size pipe as you get further from the meter.
What Type Pipe from Water Meter to House?
If the run from the house to the street is short (under 60 feet) use "Type
L " soft copper. It is less likely to break and it has no fittings in the ground except at each end of the pipe.
Also put pipe
(foam) insulation) around the copper run. For longer runs next best choice would be schedule 40 PVC pipe.
Do not use flexible plastic - that is black "poly" pipe. It is way to soft and the metal clamps and
hard plastic (or metal) connectors will break over time, plumbers repair them weekly.
Burying water pipes outside
Find out what the freeze depth is in your area and bury the pipes below that level.
Seattle area is 2 feet. Use schedule 40 PVC for cold water and CVPC for hot (if you're running
hot water outside also).
Protect Well From Freezing
Most household water systems are enclosed in a well house or a well box. An effective enclosure would be well insulated and have a built-in
heat source, such as a heat lamp. Some enclosures are built below ground level with walls below the frost line to keep them from freezing.
Plan ahead. Here are some options:
1. You can turn on a faucet
when temperatures drop. Moving water - a good drip is far less apt to freeze.
This option is a good "panic" measure, but it's definitely not good water stewardship. You'll be using energy to kick the pump on more often than
necessary and wasting water at the same time.
2. Put an incandescent (not fluorescent) light bulb in the well house. Place it near the pump, and leave it on during cold weather. A 100-watt bulb makes
a great little space heater. Make sure the light can't get knocked over or set something on fire.
This option provides a fair degree of security, but it's not an energy-efficient alternative. If the light stays on 24 hours a day through
the winter months, you'll spend about $3-$5 a month, and is only reliable as long as the power stays
on.
3. Inspect your well house or box before the weather turns bad. Make sure there are no drafty holes, broken windows or missing insulation. Put heat
tape on the pump and plumbing. (Follow directions on the package.) Heat tape made specifically for this purpose is available at most hardware stores. Plug
in the heat tape. Initial costs may be $10-$30, depending on how much exposed pipe you have. Heat tape will be pretty reliable as long as the power stays on.
4. Weatherize the well house. Install new weather stripping, caulk and repair the roof. Add insulation if you didn't have it before. Put in new
insulation
if the existing material has been damaged.
5. Install a thermostatically controlled space heater. Set it at 45-50 degrees. The heater may or may not use more electricity than the heat tape or light
bulb approach, depending on the weather. It will be more reliable.
6. With any of these options, check the well system during cold snaps. If you are worried about power outages, learn to drain your storage tanks and how to
re-prime your water system.
7. You might also purchase a safe propane or kerosene space heater. Use it on those very cold nights when storm fronts roll through and knock trees across
power lines. Just remember it's not a good idea to operate unvented combustion heaters in an inhabited space.
Polybutylene Pipe
LATEST NEWS: A Washington Post article on June 15, page F4, reports that homeowners who had polybutylene plastic pipes breaks before August 21, 1995, have only until August 21, 1996 to file a claim for reimbursement from the Consumer Plumbing Recovery Center at area 800 867-4698. About 37,000 homeowners have had their polybutylene
plumbing replaced so far, under the terms of the national class action settlement.
On November 8, 1995 a national 950 million dollar Polybutylene Pipe settlement was approved, in which similar suits across 21 states were joined with Cox vs Shell and Hoechst Celanese, including Spencer vs. Shell in Alabama. Eljer Industries and Dupont have agreed to contribute to the fund, bringing all major parties into the settlement.
A detailed article in the Washington Post, Friday November 10th, says this settlement is more generous than earlier proposed in Cox v. Shell. Homeowners will nonetheless be given an opportunity to opt out of the new terms of this settlement.
It will take about 4 weeks for the new settlement agreement and claims procedures to be mailed to those who have already registered.
If you have not already done so, you should register to receive information about the Cox v. Shell settlement by calling (800) 876-4698.
It would seem this settlement takes into account a suit filed in Camden New Jersey earlier by the Prudential Insurance Company to ensure that Cox v. Shell would not prevent the defendants from reimbursing insurance companies.
Rust in Dishwasher
There is no way to clean rust out of old galvanized pipes. Most DWMs have a screen where the water
connects to the machine. You access it through the lower front panel. Another solution would be to put a filter on just the hot
water pipe to the DWM. If you replace the pipe - use copper, and connect to the old galvanized with a dialectic union.
Rattling Pipes
The most common reason pipes rattle is the washer in the faucet or valve is loose.
Another is that the pipe is touching another pipe or hard surface in the wall. And for hot water rattles, the energy saving
nipples that screw in the top of the water heater, sometimes make a serious rattling noise when you turn on any hot water
tap. They have a ball in them that acts like a check valve.
The Faucet CLUNKS
99% of the time
when you hear a clunk in any pipe when you turn a faucet on/off - it's a loose washer in the faucet. When you take it apart be
sure you get the old washer and a screw. If you don't - turn the water back on and flush out the missing part.
Anti Hammer Device?
Up until 10/15 years ago we put in
anti hammer tubes. The "powers that be" found that the tubes got water logged over
time so it's no longer code. In commercial
installs, spring loaded devices are used especially at the end of long runs or at the end of a series of fixtures like urinals.
To replace the air in the anti hammers, drain down the water in
the whole house with the faucets turned on. The idea is that when you turn the water back on it will compress the air at the highest
point at the end of each pipe.
Shower Stall or Floor Drain Smells?
The smell is "sewer gas". A P-Trap is made just to plug the pipe with
water so sewer gas air can't escape. If you can see water in the P-trap, then the
P-trap is holding water and you know it's working, if no water can be seen then
take a glass of water and pour into that drain. If all P-traps are functioning, the problem is probably a leaking drain
pipe, you will need to search for the spot, it could be a missing clean-out cap.
About:
PlumbCheaper.com
plumbing company, Seattle, King County, Orange County, San Francisco, California, New York County, New
York
Professional PLUMBING | ROOTER | DRAIN | SEWER | TOILET Services
Licensed, Bonded and Insured Tel: (206) 664-1945
plumbing@HandyGC.com
Homepage services Professional Plumbing, Rooter, Drain & Sewer Cleaning Services and Repairs
Fully Licensed, Bonded and Insured | Washington State License: HandyKC911c5 UNIQUE SERVICES
plumbing, drain, plumber, sewer, drains, rooter, sink drain, drain cleaner, drain pipe, tub drain, drain cleaning, bathtub drain, plumbing drain, sewers, sewer drain, sewer line, bathroom drain, clogged drain, drain snake, sewer cleaning, overflow drain, tub plumbing, unclog drain, washing machine drain, plumbing rooter, plumbing snake, sewer repair, basement drain, clog drain, drain clean, drain cleaners, line drain, sewer main, toilet drain, bathtub plumbing, drain pipes, drain trap, kitchen sink plumbing, plumbing pipes, plumbing trap, sewer drain cleaning, sewer plumbing, sewer service, drain rooter, drain service, plumbing plumbers, unclog a drain, clear drain, clogged drains, drain vent, plumbing plumber, rooters, sewer lines, sewer machine, sewer snake, sink drains, licensed plumber, slow drain, trenchless sewer, plumbing drains, sewer replacement, bathtub drains, rooter plumbers, sewer cleaner, sewer pipes, sewer roots, sewer vent, unclogging drain, drain cleaning machine, drain clearing, plumber drain, rooter service, sewer cleanout, sewer lateral, sewer rooter, unclog drains, clogged sewer, drain cleaning service, drain plumbers, drain snakes, plumber snake, rotor rooter, sewer cleaners, sewer line repair, blocked drain, clogged bathtub drain, drain cleaning equipment, plumbing snakes, sewer auger, sewer line replacement, clogged shower drain, rooter rooter, sewer leak, sewer line cleaning, sewer problems, slow drains, unclog shower drain, unclogging drains, clogged plumbing, clogged sink drain, drain clogs, sewer back up, sewer drains, sewer install, clear clogged drain, plumber rooter, sewer repairs, drain blockage, drain cleaning services, sewer clog, clogged sewer line, sink drain cleaning, blocked sewer, sewer backed up, shower drain clog, unblock drain, broken sewer line, bathtub drain cleaning, sewer line repairs, sewer line service, main sewer line repair, main sewer line replacement, backed up drain, bathtub sewer, broken sewer lines, cleaning a drain, clear a clogged drain, clog plumber, collapsed sewer line, mister rooter, pipe rooter, plumber dishwasher, plumber drains, plumbing cleaning, rooter drains, rooter man, roots sewer line, sewer plumber, sewer plumbers, sewer sink, sewer trap, sink plumber, snake rooter, toilet plumber, toilet rooter, trenchless sewer line repair, trenchless sewer line replacement, tub drain clog, water rooter, clogged, unclog, trenchless, clogged toilet, pipe cleaning, unclog toilet, clogged sink, repiping, septic tank cleaning, sewer and drain, rooter, toilet clog, clogged bathtub, clogged pipe, clog sink, clogged shower, clogged dishwasher, clogged kitchen sink, septic cleaners, clogged pipes, clogged tub, sewer and drain cleaning, blocked drains, clogged toilets, pipe clog, blocked toilet, sewage cleaning, sewage pipes, unclog pipes, blocked pipe, clogged sinks, blocked sink, clearing clogged drains, unblock drains, unblocking drains, clog sinks, drainage cleaning, main line repiping, repiping service, septic backed up, sewer and drain cleaners, sewer and drain cleaning service, sewer and drain repair, sewer and drain services, snake kitchen sink, toilet backed up, unclog
pipe
© 2007 copyright, GooglerTV Frank D'orr.com production.
WANTED "Home Repair" projects to film, email: Plumbing@HandyGC.com